Ask Pete

[#1]

Like any other topic, people hold all kinds of mistaken beliefs about car problems and vehicle maintenance. And since this is my area of expertise, I frequently hear statements about cars that are, for lack of a better term, flat out wrong. Here is a countdown of my five current favorites:

5. “Can’t you just hook up the computer to find out what’s wrong?”

I usually hear this one when there is a symptom that occurs, oh, once every seven months or so. With few exceptions, the reality is that if the symptom isn’t evident at the time the technician is inspecting the vehicle, chances are good that everything the “computer” is reading will check out just fine. That is why I sometimes suggest leaving the car with your technician for a couple days so he/she will have a chance to drive it in an attempt to duplicate the problem.

4. “When putting on new tires, they always go on the front.”

20 years ago, I would have agreed with this statement. That’s around the time that front-wheel and all-wheel drive vehicles started to become popular. Even today, this subject can be debated for hours! In fact, the two schools of thought are so divided that even the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) has no position on the matter! Me? I try to keep it simple. In my opinion, if you have a passenger car, you should put the new tires in the front. If you have a pick-up truck with little to no weight in the rear, then you should put them on the rear.

3. “Just follow the air pressure as listed on the side of the tire.”

False! You should always consult your owner’s manual for the recommended air pressure. Some manufacturers also put this information on the driver’s door jamb or inside the fuel access door.

2. “My battery must be fine because my lights and radio come on.”

This is not necessarily true, in that it takes a lot more current to turn the starter motor than it does to switch on a light or turn on a radio. Proper test equipment should be used to accurately evaluate the starting and charging system of any vehicle.

1. My favorite! “I want to get an alignment because I have a vibration around 55 mph.”

An alignment never has and never will solve a vibration problem. Vibrations are usually caused by tires or tire-related issues, such as balance, bent rims or out-of-round tires. Other causes could include worn suspension components or driveline issues, such as worn universal joints or a bent drive shaft. Alignments deal with the geometry of the vehicle, which affects tire wear and vehicle tracking.     

What about you? Do you have any automotive fallacies that you found out are simply not true? Or is there something that you’ve heard about car problems or maintenance that you suspect might not be true? Let’s put these automobile urban legends to rest!

[#2]

I have a 1995 Honda Civic with 200,000+ miles on which I have never changed the timing belt. Would it be worth changing that now or just continue playing Russian Roulette?

[#3]

By all means change it. It is a lot easier to change it on your terms then deal with all the collateral damage when the belt does break. It is not an "if" it breaks at this point but "when". You have really been lucky to this point!

[#4]

I'm a little behind in reading Going Places, and just read an article in the July/August issue that pertained exactly to what I just went through 2 days ago. In inflammatory scare tactics, Bob W. told of a scam his dealer pulled on him when having his oil changed. The exact thing happened to me, at my repair shop, minus the PCV valve grommet, plus they said I needed an allignment, when I wasn't experiencing any problems or vibrations. So, I trusted their judgement, especially when he said the engine could catch on fire! $317.33 later I now will go to a AAA certified shop to have this checked out. I have to wonder, if the mechanic who played me had read the article?

[#5]

So I brought my 2007 Jeep Wrangler to the nearby dealership for a routine oil change. The guy came back and said that my rear main seal and oil pan were "weeping" and that to fix the issues I would have to pay approximately $1,000. After I picked my jaw off the floor and polietly said "Not today thanks", I thought to ask you for advice. I know very little about the mechanics of cars so my question is just how serious is this problem? Also is it really worth $1000 to fix it or was I being hussled? Thanks.

[#6]

There is a clear difference between weeping and leaking. While the situation probably won't fix itself, I wouldn't address this until it turns into an actual leak. It is impossible to tell how long this transition will take; it could be a year it could be five. I would just continue to have it looked at during normal service. For now, keep the grand in your pocket!

[#7]

Hi, Dropped off my 2004 ford taurus for a transmission leak. they said they needed to add dye to find the leak. I can see it dripping on the ground, why do this and what should I know about leaking transmissions?

[#8]

oh and they want to charge me $100 just to do this. Is it worth it? Also brought it to an AAA shop but I already feel I'm getting ripped off!

[#9]

While you may be able to see the fluid leaking on the ground that doesn't mean the cause of the leak is as obvious. If while inspecting the vehicle from underneath it is clearly obvious where the leak is coming from then a dye test shouldn't be needed. It is however recommended if it is unclear of the source of the leak or if more than one leak is suspected.  

[#10]

I have a 2002 Lexus SUV.  Has about 86000 miles.  Notice in last few days that it will die at the first start in the morn.  This  will happen 4 or 5 times then it stays started but it feels like it wants to "die" at stoplights or when I really slow down..I am a female and have no idea whats going on and I'm afraid when I take it to the garage on Sat. they will charge me more than necessary.  I want to know something to be able to protect myself and get the car fixed too.  Thank you

[#11]

With something like this you have to start somewhere as does the repair shop. I suggest understanding the minimum diagnostic fee and would not agree to more than an hour to diagnose the concern. This will probably be around or just under $100. This fee may or may NOT be applied toward the cost of the actual repair. Your concern may be related to the mass air sensor or another input sensor for the engine management system. Hope this helps!

[#12]

check engine light is on but car seems to be running fine... I was told evap, purge solenoid needs replaced with total cost of 730.00.. 670.00 for the part.. why would i need that part??? madza 3 115,000 miles

[#13]

It is part of the evaporative emissions system. Its function is to keep gas fumes from being vented into the atmosphere.

[#14]

I have a 1994 Mustang that has incredibly low mileage...68,000 miles...and is in great conditon.  However, the odometer just stopped working.  Can you give me a ballpark estimate of what it will cost to have the odometer fixed?  Thanks! ~Wendy

[#15]

If the speedometer is working and the odometer is not, it sounds like the cluster may have to be replaced There is not a standard price for a repair operation like this as many times the place of repair will send the cluster out to a specialist for repair. If I recall, the last one I had done was around $1,500 but I suggest visiting your Ford dealer and getting a firm estimate from them.