Ask Pete

[#1]

I often hear from folks that are looking for the absolute best deal on oil changes for their vehicle. While everyone is looking for a deal these days, this falls under the category of “You get what you pay for!”

With many repair shops, it is not uncommon for the shop to assign their least experienced technician to the oil change bay. Obviously, the rationale behind this is reduced labor costs. The oil change technician is responsible for successfully changing the oil and filter, checking the air in the tires, checking all other fluids, and giving the vehicle a general once over for anything that may look out of sorts. If we examine the hard costs for a typical oil change, it would break down like this:

Oil (5 qts)     $7

+ Filter         $4

+ Labor        $8   

Total             $19

As you can see, at a cost of $19 an oil change is pretty much a loss leader to attract new customers, especially when the shop retails it out for only $21.95. Under this model, a shop would be losing money if it assigned a more skilled technician to the task, as its labor expenses would increase.

Knowing these figures, I am always leery of the $9.95 oil change, because the compromise has to come from somewhere. It will come either from the quality of the oil or oil filter, or from the skill level of the technician. With your automobile being your second largest financial investment (in most cases), can you afford this level of compromise?

I would rather see consumers pay a little more for the service, knowing they received quality parts and lubricants installed by a professional. Instead of running all around town searching for the cheapest deal, look for the quality deal. Establish a rapport with the company, letting them get familiar with you and your car. This will hopefully lead to a long and beneficial relationship for both parties.

Bottom line: You should have the same level of trust with the provider of your vehicle’s maintenance and repair as you do your medical doctor!

[#2]

My question - I had the following work done on my car on 5/15/2011: Control Arm Assembly, lower left, lower right - Control Arm Assembly RWD, upper left and upper right, Compression Rod - Coupe left and right, Shock and/or Strut Assembly, RWD left and right, Rack & Pinion Assembly RWD, included tie rod ends, sedan, RWD, Standard Trans, Valve Cover Gasket, left and right sides, Air Cleaner Element, Shock Absorber, rack Supension, & Alignment.  One month later, the passenger and driver side tires were worn inside to the metal shredding, and one tire blew out.  Would the worn out tires been noticed if they had been in this state, during the above repairs done on this car?

[#3]

Absolutely! Now if the tire wear was not present at the time of the repair there is something seriously wrong with the geometry of the vehicle. Either the alignment was not performed correctly or something is loose or not installed correctly with the steering or suspension components. I would return to the origianl place of repair and have all work re-inspected.  

[#4]

Thanks for the info on oil changes. I am definitely guilty of choosing the cheap oil change place over my regular, knowledgeable mechanic's garage. I plan to reform my habits because of your article!

[#5]

Hi Pete:

Thanks for the oil change comments here (and also in the newest issue.) How often does one need to get a change in very low milage situations--about 2500 miles/yr with an 2010 Elantra--with usual trips of 20 to 100 miles (no trailers, etc)?  I go to the dealer for about $33 and he says every 6 months, where I am told that the oil deteriorates just sitting in the car.  I don't mind the cost but it is almost a full day activity-being 40 miiles away and always busy.   

[#6]

I do agree with the twice a year in low mileage situations such as yours. I do offer a slightly better explanation why. Rather than a blanket statement about deterioration, what happens is by NOT driving routinely, moisture accumulates in the crankcase due to humidity, etc. As you can imagine moisture is not a good lubricant and can do an engine harm if not flushed out or removed. The $66 a year you are paying is cheap insurance that your engine will last as long as possible given your driving habits.   

[#7]

Mr.Pete, My question is, or any of the solutions they sell to prevent small tire punctures (like Tiretite, Ultra seal etc) real work.Are they safe to use in tires.  They dont make tires like Contiseal, nailgard in many sizes any more. Thanks. Sarma.

[#8]

The only tire sealant I am a fan of is Slime. It is simple to use and actually works! Keep in mind the puncture must be in the tread area only and will NOT seal rim or valve issues. Also, as with any applied tire sealant, it is a temporary solution and any puncture should be repaired properly with an internal patch.

[#9]

My son recently moved to Northern Virginia from Florida.  He has a 2002 Ford SUV.  What service does he have to have done to the vehicle to get through the winter months safely and to prevent any "freezing" issues to the vehicle?

[#10]

I suggest he be diligent in his maintenance of the vehicle for things such as using the proper weight oil for colder temperatures (usually a 5w-30) and make sure the cooling system has a proper 50/50 mix of antifreeze. Too much water will freeze and harm the engine. If where he is routinely has sustained temperatures below freezing he might consider getting a block heater. This will keep the engine block from freezing and aid in cold weather starting. He should use a washer solvent that contains alcohol (alcohol doesn't freeze) and he should also carry a bag of kitty liter in the trunk if he encounters any traction or slippery issues. Make sure the tires are properly inflated and are in good condition with plenty of tread.  I would test the heater and defroster BEFORE you need them so if any repairs are needed they can be done now versus later. The battery is very important as well so make sure he has a strong battery that will last the winter. The list for things to keep in the trunk can vary but I would keep a small shovel, jumper cables, a blanket some drinking water (keep the jugs about 2.3rds full) and maybe some energy snacks.

Hope this helps!  

[#11]

Pete,  I have a 2005 Lexus 330. It has a rattling sound (periodically) from the dashboard..behind the CD player, A/C controls..sounds like it comes from behind them. No one can figure it out; it disappears when I take it to the repair shop. I don't take it to the dealer; but may have to. The car runs fine; I have had all the regular maintenance; it has 100K miles on it now. This has been happening for about 3 years. I have tried turning AC off/on, doesn't affect it..same with CD/radio. It does it in Park, Reverse, Drive...and some days/nights not at all..Happens in cold (live in Florida, so not usually too cold) and hot weather. Happens when engine is cold, hot, warm. Have not been able to isolate any time, situation, temperature. They want to dismantle the entire dash..they have no ideas either. This is a AAA approved repair shop, but I am not that confident in them; they recommend flushing my engine; cleaning injector valves, when I have no problems with that. They just told me my power steering fluid was leaking..and needed immediate replacement..so I did..and then I found out that I could have waited, when I spoke to a friend, since I had no symptoms, so I am hesitant to spend hundreds of dollars to isolate a problem that may be nothing. Any ideas??

[#12]

My research finds a Lexus Technical Service Bulletin that outlines the rattle you describe. I suggest visiting your local dealer and refer to TSB # L-SB-0090-08. This involves four windshield locating pins inside the vehicle. Two are on the top of the windshield opening and the other two are on the bottom which is approximately behind the equipment area you describe.

As far as your relationship with your current place of repair, whether it is a AAA shop or not, if you do not feel comfortable and do not trust them, don't go back! You have to have the same level of trust with your place of repair that you do with your medical provider. As far as the recommended services and you not having "any problems", these are suggested maintenance services. In some cases I do condone the recommendation of these services and in some cases not. As a consumer you always have the right to refuse suggested services so don't be afraid to say no.    

[#13]

Tell people to be careful even if they use their Dealer for oil change.

Three times in the last twenty years the oil drain plug was only hand tight after oil change.I noticed oil on my garage floor the next day.

It happened twice at Dodge dealers in two different states and once at a Honda dealer. Luckily the oil drain plug didn't fall out.

[#14]

Have done nothing except change oil routinly on my 2005 Suburban. At 125,000 miles, I'm thinking I should drain and flush all systems and replace all belts - just as a preventative measure as nothing is wrong. Anything else I should do to hopefully get another 125,000 mile?

[#15]

I have one of these vehicles as well. Just keep doing what you are doing and you should get a few more years out of it. I agree with doing the belts, hose etc. You may want to throw a fresh set of spark plugs and wires on as well.

[#16]

I recently had a problem with my car - it was hesitating and sometimes stalling out when I stopped at a traffic light or a

stop sign. I took it to my AAA authorized mechanic who drove it around and checked it out but couldn't diagnose any prob-

lem. So, I then took it to the dealer. (At this point, I also noticed that my tachometer dial kept going past normal range and

was past the red line on my instrument panel.) They diagnosed the following: Tachometer needs a new assembly-$900;

Cam sensor leaking oil-Replace cam sensor and recheck(OK) $366 charge; power steering hose leaking fluid; I only

had them replace the cam sensor for the $366. One day after the repair was done, the same problem occurred again and

I had to bring the car back in. This time I was told it was a problem with the mass air flow meter. I then paid for a repair to

replace the MAF sensor. I paid for the part but  not the labor charges. After this was done, I returned to my AAA aurhorized

mechanic (who had done work on my power steering unit last August) to have him check the power steering fluid leak - he found nothing wrong. My question is this - should I have had to pay anything at all for the MAF sensor repair (even tho

I wasn't charged labor) - since I DID pay for the cam sensor repair (which was not the cause of the problem to begin with?) What are the "experts" at the dealership responsible for when they misdiagnose a problem? Otherwise, they could

say many things are wrong (which might not be the case) and a customer would just keep paying for repairs that really

are not needed? What is your opinion of financial responsibility in cases like this?

[#17]

It depends on how it was written. If it was written as you describe, "cam sensor leaking oil", then it doesn't sound like it was replaced in effort to fix a drivability issue buy rather an oil leak issue. If the replaced the sensor in effort to fix a drivability issue I too would argue why you paid for a part that didn't fix your car. If that is the case you paid in good faith that their diagnosis was correct.

[#18]

Hello, again, Pete!

Just a quick question regarding recent brake repair work I had done (my Infiniti dealer told me that my brakes needed to

be replaced.) I took my Infiniti I-30t (1997), to an authorized AAA repairman who charged me $179.43  for two front brake pads (to remove and replace  which included clean, lube or replace brake hardware as necessary. Front, both sides. This

was done on 11/09/2011. I was given a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty on all parts and labor.

On 1/18/2012, I brought  the car in again because the brakes had been squealing loudly. This time he performed another

repair for $195.53! This was for two Disc rotors for the front brakes. His bill states, "remove and replace  (includes: repack

wheel bearings where applicable and replace pads if necessary. DOES NOT include refinishing")

My question is this: Should the second repair have been necessary or should he have checked this all out when I first

brought the car in to get new brake pads? 

My

[#19]

It's really tough to say. Part of me says yes, the entire job should have been sold on the first trip but another part says if it didn't appear to be necessary at the time of inspection he would then be selling things that weren't needed.