Ask Pete

[#1]

Should your local repair shop know your warranty status?

I was recently contacted by a member who had a vehicle repair done by her local mechanic, only to find out afterward that the component she had repaired was still covered by her manufacturer’s original warranty. After a couple of futile attempts to get reimbursed for the repairs from her local dealer, the member sought resolution through the manufacturer’s regional management. 

All of this prompted her question for me: “Whose responsibility is it to know what is warranted, and for how long?” It would be real easy to default the answer and say the independent shop that made the repair should be on top of that information, but when it comes right down to it, the vehicle owner should know what the warranty is and for how long.

Unfortunately, even in our age of “all-knowing” technology, it is still nearly impossible for an independent repair shop to know all the idiosyncrasies for every year, make and model of car on the road today. While most of this information is available, warranty periods sometimes change without the consumer or the aftermarket world being kept in the loop. Plus, some drivers purchase extended warranties for their vehicles, then don’t remember that they have it until an otherwise covered repair has already been made.

Simply put, the bottom line is that it is the responsibility of each vehicle’s owner to know about the warranty products they purchase, as well as the vehicle’s original warranty provisions. This is yet one more important reason to read your owner’s manual and all the documentation you receive when you purchase a vehicle. In the long run, it can save you money—not to mention your relationship with your local mechanic!  

[#2]

Hey Pete,

Speaking of warranty woes. The "check engine light" on my wife's 2007 Toyota Avalon came on and she went straight for Toyota. They put it on the computer and they said the vapor/charcoal canister was leaking. They said it would cost $500 to fix it? I did not think these emission components broke? I have a 16 year old Nissan and the canister is OEM? No problems. I thought the canister was made of plastic connected with lines and purged the gas vapors when you cranked the car. What could make the canister leak? If it is cracked would that not be defective? Am I being scammed. I researched online and found that alot of customers with different model Toyotas over the years have had to have canisters replaced. Can you give me insight. Thanks Pete.

[#3]

Toyota did have some problems with canisters and on this particular vehicle, if it was going to be a problem, it was evident from the first fill up. If you are just now having an issue then more than likely it isn't a defect as much as it the pressure diaphragm may have ruptured. This may come under the category of "things happen" as I too have a Toyota product with well over 100,000 miles on it and it still has the OE canister as well as many other original parts.  

[#4]

Hi Pete,

Might have posted my problem in archive folder. Well..here goes again. I have a "pre-owned" 2007 Toyota Camry that "gulping oil." I have regular oil changes usually at the 3500 mile mark. At the last change (3 months ago) I mentioned to the technician that I've hand to put in additional oil between changes, he suggested using a more efficient type of oil that would allow 7500 miles betweeen changes. He supposedly checked over the car, but didn't offer an explanation of why it was "running" through so much oil.

Last week I checked the oil, it was past the mid way point. Yesterday there almost no liquid on the stick. There are no oil pools on the garage floor, nor any stains when I've been parked for any lenght of time.

Where is the oil going!!!!

Thank you,

Diana

[#5]

Diana it is probably be burning oil and that can be in one of two ways. It can either be burning oil as the engine is running or being collected in the combustion chamber after the engine is shut down and burned when the engine is first started. The first scenario is usually caused by worn piston rings and not common to Toyota's. The second scenario is usually caused by worn valve stem seals or guides and does occur on Toyota products on occasion. When you start your car first thing in the morning have a friend or family member stand at the rear of the car as it is first started to see if there is a puff of blue smoke from the tailpipe. This may only last for a few seconds. If it does chances are good the valve seals or guides are bad. You will them know your oil is going out your tailpipe!

[#6]

Pete,

I have a 6 cyl. 2000 Toyota 4-runner with 199K miles (timing belt replaced at 160k).  Runs fine but about 4 months ago it started "clattering" on accelleration under load (towing a pop-up).  Does not make this noise on "at speed" driving - reminds me of a sewing machine running. The (valve?) clatter pretty much disappears if I run 91 or higher octane.

Have towed for over a year without this problem (same trailor, same load, same roads - the realtively flat ones in Florida, used to run 87 octane with no issues).

Is this indicative of a need for a valve job? someting more serious?

[#7]

I doubt it is that serious. It sounds like it may be spark knock and there are a couple of things that can attribute to that. You mentioned it goes away with higher octane fuel. This indicates it could just be octane or an atomization issue. Your vehicle may need some routine injector and throttle body maintenance. Another possibility is a faulty knock sensor not adjusting ignition timing as needed. I would not tear into the engine at this stage of the game unless it were absolute necessary.

[#8]

Thanks for the feedback - sorry for dropping into the wrong thread.

So best order to hit?

1) injector clean

2) Throttle Body clean

3) Other routine maintenance???

4) Replace Knock Sensor

[#9]

I would have your place of repair zero in on the best course of action. My suggestions are just that based on your description of the symptoms. I do not recommend telling your shop what to fix or how to fix but simply explain your concerns and let them thoroughly diagnose the problem. This could save you time, money and aggravation. 

[#10]

Hey Pete,

I had new tires installed on my 1994 Nissan Sentra.They were installed at a Firestone store that is located on Moody AFB, Georgia. The manager said he could not align my car withour first replacing my rack and pinion assembly/tire rods at the tune of $923. The left side had just alittle play, and when he turned my wheel inward I could see a small tear in the rods boot. The right side had hardly any play. The car steers great, no leaks of any kind on the driveway. These is the same store that said I had an oil leak, yet again on oil presence on driveway. My car has 251K, runs great. Are they blowing smoke? At what point do you replace the steering? Firestone in my area of Valdosta has had alot of complaints. Can you shed light on this. Thank You

Tim

[#11]

The boots that have a tear in them are dust boots designed to keep sand, salt, etc away from the moving components and the seals are further in housing. If there is visible looseness in the rack it will affect the toe in/toe out aspect of you alignment and vehicle geometry. This could (depending on how bad it is) cause premature wear of your new tires. If the rack is loose, doing an alignment would be a waste of money because the toe setting will not be accurate or hold. You may want to consider getting a second opinion on how bad the rack actually is by a different place of repair.