Ask Pete

[#1]

It’s just a matter of time before the winter clothes will be out to stay—at least for a few months. Gone will be the days of shorts and t-shirts, and many of us will be sporting jackets, long-sleeve shirts and thicker socks. But just as you prepare yourself for that cold winter snap, are you doing what you should to adequately prepare your vehicle?

There are certain differences in preparation from region to region, but care should be taken nonetheless to ensure your car is ready so you don’t get stuck! No matter where you live, there are some common things to prepare such as:

• Ensure your antifreeze mixture is correct so your cooling system is protected against freezing.

• Tires may need to be chained in some parts of the country, but for the most part, good tread on an M&S (mud and snow) design tire should get you through the winter just fine.

• Using the correct viscosity oil is critical, as oil thickens when it gets cold, making it harder for the engine to turn over.

• Make sure your battery is fully charged and is of the correctly rated CCA (cold cranking amperage) for your specific vehicle.

• No matter what time of year it is, make sure all cable connections are clean and tight.

• Your windshield washer fluid needs to be of the cold weather variety to prevent freezing—and a good set of winter wiper blades is a must if you’ll be driving through snow, sleet and freezing rain.

• The contents of your trunk will vary by region as well, so make sure you are well prepared for most any situation. Stock the trunk with things like a blanket, gloves, nonperishable snacks and bottled water. These can all make a big difference if you get stranded in the cold for an extended period of time. Think of it this way: It’s better to be equipped and never have to use that stuff than to need it and not have it on hand.       

I invite you to share a couple of your own “must have” items that you keep in your trunk for those “just in case” situations.

Drive carefully—as always—and stay warm out there!

[#2]

Hi Pete,

I have a problem.  I took my 1994 Lincoln Town Car with 45,000 miles to the dealer to have her checked out for a trip.  Perhaps it was a mistake to go over to the new car section, after waiting about three hours, for the salesman called over to the service department to check on the trade in value. 

Then he told me that the service technician wanted to see me.  The technician said it would cost over $2700 to fix the car, that I should rent a car if I wanted to go on a trip, and that, since I was looking at a new car anyway . . .  (At the same time they told me this, they put in a new window at a cost of  over $300.)

There may be something wrong with the suspension of the car; it makes a little noise when it first starts up leveling, but then she drives like a dream. I was concerned that they were using scare tactic.

I had a male friend take the car to an AAA approved garage, saying he was thinking of buying her, and he was told this, “Needs rear transmission output seal; needs break flush; very clean car.”  That’s it.

I really don’t want to get a new car right now, but now I’m afraid to drive the Lincoln.  Any suggestions?  -Worried Pat in West Palm Beach

[#3]

Worried Pat in West Palm Beach!

You didn't mention specifically what the dealer wanted to do for $2700 so it's tough to say for sure. If the air ride suspension system is making noise when you start the car, there may be a leak in one of the shocks and the compressor may be a little noisy. The components for this system are VERY expensive when they go bad. If the dealer provided a written list of what they wanted to repair, present that list to the AAA shop for their opinion.  

[#4]

Hi Pete,

Just read ask pete in my wifes new aaa magazine and, in your response to sandra h about parking on a hill :  i think you should have mentioned applying and holding the regular brake firmly , even if that means using  the other foot,  before releasing the e-brake.

Thanks!

[#5]

Good point! In my mind that was a given but it is good to point that out. Thanks!

[#6]

Hi Pete~  I am new to this section, but I have a question about my car, and hope you can answer or point me in the right direction to find someone who can. I have a 2004 Nissan Murano, it has 136,000 miles, and I really love this car.  I have had it for 6+ years, and have taken really good care of it.   I have had some maintainence issues, last year I had to put in a new transwmission at 123,000 miles ( the extended warranty only went to 120,000) but lately it has been making alot of noise under the hood, the engine is much louder, and it just sounds different.  I took it to my mechanic (whom I have trusted for the last 20 years) and he told me it was low on oil, and that maybe it was time to unload this car before the engine tore up!  So, my question is.....do you have any idea how long a nissan engine will last? I know chevys, and hondas and toyotas will last 200,000miles plus, but what about the nissan?  Is it time to give it up?  thanks for your help~ jlw-29

[#7]

Unfortunately there is no written guideline for these things only anecdotal knowledge and then there are plenty of opinions. Also there are too many influencing variables that play into the equation to have a one size fits all answer. I can tell you that the better part of you cars' life is behind it. I would like to hear your technicians justification for his suggestion. He probably has some valid points! Hope this helps!

[#8]

Hi Pete:

I have a 2003 Nissan XTerra SE with very low mileage (under 38K).  Lately, there has been a rattling noise coming from underneath the car.  As there is nothing loose under there, my best guess is that it is from the resonator on the exhaust.

Is there any immediate need to replace the resonator if I can live with the rattle that accompanies it?  I am concerned about the catalytic converter being adversely affected, but I do not know.

What are your thoughts?

~exhausted in Orlando

[#9]

Exhausted in Orlando!

One of the most common exhaust related noises is usually a heat shield noise that will make you want to pull your hair out. If all that has been checked and it has been determined it is definitely the resonator, my concern would be if there is an internal baffle that has broken loose that is creating the noise. If that does happen, there is the possibility the broken piece can become logged elsewhere in the system and actually create a restriction in the exhaust. This is definitely worth getting checked out further to better assess the risks.